AYLİN ÖNEY TAN

Italy-Türkiye cheese trail AYLİN ÖNEY TAN

Italy-Türkiye cheese trail

For cheese lovers, the taste of cheese is a unifying element, no matter what type. There are cultures, mainly Asian cuisines, that do not have cheese in their diets, but for the rest, cheese is pretty essential. In the Turkish diet, we start the day with “Beyaz Peynir” literally “White Cheese” together with slices of meaty tomatoes and fresh cucumbers and continue to flirt with this cheese throughout the day. During summer, a slice of juicy watermelon is paired with a slab of this tangy salty cheese, and the day ends with the national spirit Rakı, the anise-infused grape distillation which turns milky when mixed with water. Even if there is no meze on the rakı table, a slice of briny white cheese together with fragrant white melon is enough to make the ultimate trio. White cheese sneaks into börek, layered savory pies, and crumbled into various dishes. In the countryside, humble curd cheese “Lor” or “Çökelek” is wrapped into flatbreads with spring onions and fresh herbs to make an instant roll, usually for breakfast. Then there is “Kaşar Peyniri” the second most popular cheese from breakfast tables to oozing toasts. The cheese of Anatolian pastureland is definitely “Tulum” aged in caves; sheep’s milk curd cheese encased in goatskin. The list goes on and on, the cheese varieties and dishes that make use of cheese are endless; cheese is enjoyed in a variety of ways on the Turkish table. Of course, there are also cheese-based sweets, the strong suit of Turkish cuisine.

October 08 2023
Vacation vibes AYLİN ÖNEY TAN

Vacation vibes

I remember my first dinner at Foça Club Med (short for Club Méditerranée) resort so vividly. It must have been some summer in the 1970’s, I do not remember the year, but there are so many details engraved in my memory. It was not only the food which was way different and much finer than the usual tourist fare, but the whole experience was memorable. We were met by an elegant lady dressed in a long summer dress, who cheerfully led us to a shared table of eight to dine with other guests. Even couples on their honeymoon would share tables with others, connecting and socializing with others was a strict unwritten rule of the village. The restaurant was a semi-open space, no walls but only a roof to cover, had a sense of conviviality with only identical big tables as if attending a summer wedding in a Mediterranean town. We were the only Turkish people at the table, I clearly remember the feeling of having a vacation elsewhere, maybe the French Riviera or somewhere else outside Türkiye. We were hooked from that very first dinner and became regular visitors spending every summer holiday in Club-Med resorts. In my first visit to Foça resort, I was a teenager with my mom, then dad joined us, then my small sister joined our small Foça fan group, tasting her first frog legs there, and then eventually as she grew sipping her first G&T at the Kuşadası village, me having my memorable dinner date at the Öküz Mehmet Paşa Kervansaray in Kuşadası, impressed more by the building than my date, amazed by how a historic monument was tastefully converted to a classy restaurant, maybe enforcing my decision to become a restoration architect in my future life. Alas, all venues were closed decades ago; Foça village once the cool and sexy one is now in sad ruins, young, energetic and sporty Kuşadası village is long gone, but the scent of the nutmeg in the French style buttery potato puree I had in the Kervansaray is still in my taste memory.

September 17 2023